Along the banks of the Urubamba River, a small town built along the river thrives. That town, Aguascalientes, is located amongst the lush vegetation of the Andes in the only flat land located near Machu Picchu, which takes up a generous square mile. Avenue Pachucatec, named after the emperor responsible for ordering Machu Picchu’s construction, traverses the town by connecting the train station to the natural baths. Aguascalientes lacks the pristine amenities and delectable cuisine that typify most Peruvian cities, which makes sense given that the city is only accessible by train. Amidst the densely packed restaurants, hostels, and bodegas sits a soccer field. The field stuck out like Central Park in the middle of bustling Manhattan–a calming, open space nestled within bustling chaos.
As we stumbled upon the football field, myself and a group of friends witnessed a formal game in progress. Despite the town’s small population of approximately 4,500 residents and minuscule size, there was still a sizable crowd that watched two youth teams play. The presence of multiple referees indicates that these soccer games are taken seriously rather than merely being recreation. While tourists gathered at overpriced restaurants centered around the train station, the locals seemed to flock to the soccer field to catch games. Those with residences that abutted the field would watch the action from their windows, and others would surround the field from all four dimensions in order to view the game. As further evidence of the cultural meaning of these games, the built-in concession stands underneath the bleachers would serve the freshest food in all of Aguascalientes. Eating foods from freshly-popped popcorn to fried corn dogs, spectators and passersby alike would stop for a street-food sampler. Although I personally didn’t partake in such culinary festivities, I still noticed that the mood around the field was much more jovial than in other parts of the town.
After the formal games concluded, anyone was permitted onto the field to kick the ball around. There were about as many kids practicing soccer fundamentals as there were younger adults playing informal pick-up games. I felt a sense of discomfort crossing the gate that separated the pitch and the walkway, as I felt guilty encroaching on a cultural space that was not mine. If I had more time to spend in Aguascalientes, I would spend hours at the football field, either watching games or observing how the town seems to revolve around the events that occur there. Though the town’s undeniable purpose is to cater to tourists, there does seem to be a vibrant culture among locals that I wish I could investigate beyond a surface-level understanding.
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