During our final days in Cusco we were able to experience the first day of Corpus Christi as well as the days leading up to this celebration. Corpus Christi is a Catholic feast that happens 9 weeks after Easter. The festival held in Cusco is world-renowned as patron saints from across the city's parishes are processed to the Plaza de Armas as traditional Andean symbols and sounds are woven into this syncretic celebration.
On Wednesday, the festivities began. Called the entrada, each of the parishes decorates their patron saints and virgins in rich, ornate clothing and processes them from their parishes to the Plaza San Francisco, accompanied by brass bands and dancers that celebrate the figures. As we stayed on Calle San Blas, it made sense that we were directly on the path of San Blas and his parishioners towards the plaza. It truly was a sight to see: carried by 15-20 young men, this enormous figure stood looming over the street as it was processed down the steep incline, music and dancers following behind as it made its slow trek from the church.
Something that interested me was the way in which community members of all ages were participating in the celebration. Young men carried the figurines, women and men of all ages were playing in the band or dancing in traditional clothing in the procession, and crowds of everyone from elderly women to young babies were gathered in the Plaza de Armas to watch the parade.
That brings me to my second observation: the sheer amount of people attending this festival rivaled Times Square on Black Friday, particularly on Thursday, the main processional, in which each saint and virgin parades around the Plaza. While I had been expecting a large crowd, I didn't expect the swarming of people on all corners of the plaza and the surrounding streets. As we tried to cross the plaza, we were swept into the throng of people pushing their way in all directions, a wave taking anything it its path with it. While it was slightly terrifying as I was crushed between two large men in full suits, I couldn't help but marvel at the spectacle and power that this festival had to bring out the entire community.
Overall, my short experience at this festival really showed me the communal aspect of the celebration, as well as why it has put Cusco on the map. The overwhelming sense of celebration and community that emanated from the plaza was truly magical, and whether you are religious or not you could feel the radiating spirit that soared through the crowd, a celebration that connected cultures old and new.
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