In the heart of Miraflores, a neighborhood in Peru's capital Lima, resides an undeniably conspicuous statue of a couple intertwined in a deep embrace. Created by sculptor Víctor Delfín, "El Beso" is at the center of El Parque de Amor, a contemporary immortalization of idyllic love.
Such a blatant expression of physical affection in what I knew to be a pervasively Catholic country certainly was a surprise to me. Of course, urban hubs are typically marked by distinctly progressive ideals compared to the perhaps more conservative rural countryside, but I believe that El Parque de Amor stands for more than just that, and can offer us perspective on how modern Peruvian culture reflects a juxtaposition of its strong Catholic presence and its more liberated pre-Incan history.
Lima Wasi, our place of residence during our time in Lima, was situated right next to a grand yellow church, just a few blocks away from El Parque de Amor. Every time the church bells would sound at 15 minutes past the hour I, as well as everybody in a half mile radius, was reminded of the Church's presence and importance. After traveling to Cuzco, a town seemingly more religious than Lima, we discussed in class the somber and almost melancholy nature of Hispanic Catholicism where those practicing chose to emulate Christ through sacrifice and suffering. This manifested in conservative ideals that deeply contrasted with the liberated, indigenous expression of love and even human physicality.
We were witness to the clash of these ideals first hand at Museo Larco, a museum dedicated to pre-columbian artifacts from ancient northern Peruvian civilizations. Most notable is its Checán gallery which boasts an extensive collection of erotic statues which represent the Andean concept of tinkuy, or the generative meeting of opposite and complementary forces. While on full display now as an appreciation for Peru's rich history, I recall our tour guide mentioning reluctance from the Catholic founder of the museum, Rafael Larco Hoyle, who likely was properly scandalized by their explicit nature.
As I observe the open and public displays of affection in both Lima and Cusco, I make the deduction that the contemporary expression of love in Peru emulates the careful balancing act between the old and the new, and although the odds are that this was highly unintentional, the reclaiming of a more open and accepting attitude of expressing love and affection can be seen as a welcome reconnection with Peru's archaic indigenous roots.
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